Sunday, July 7th - Charlo - Blue Heron Campsite

The day breaks in beauty. Teeth brushed, face washed, both quietly so as not to wake the chortling leprechaun, I head out to walk the large campground. We border a beach on Eel River Cove, an arm of Eel River Gully which in turn is connected to Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  I pass through a field of nodding daisy's, then a recently mowed lawn, past a small, lazy brook and over to the beach. 

A Wee Brook at the Campsite

The tide is high. It chews away at a red-soil bank turning a narrow band of saltwater murky brown. Off to the east a naturally formed causeway cuts across the bay, ending at Eel River Bar First Nation. The tide rushes through a small, bridged gap, filling and draining the bay twice a day. Reeds are inundated at high water. No blue herons in sight. 

There is a wide ditch across the road from the seashore. It too is filled with reeds, but of a different sort. I'm see splashes of violet and realize there are hundreds of naturally occurring irises growing among the reeds and young bull rushes. Mingled with yarrow, purple vetch, pink, puffy moss roses and the ubiquitous daisy's, the irises are a special delight in an unexpected seaside garden.

Mario arrives at 11 AM. Bruce, Shannon and I pile into his silver  Chrysler to begin our tour. He's known the areas since childhood and relates tales from the present and the past. Building that once housed thriving business and are now derelict. Local towns suffering by the closing of the pulp mill. The land too contaminated to be put to use without horribly expensive cleanup. 

We head into Campbellton and capture photos of the world's largest salmon. It's not a cheesy statue but tastefully executed art set in a large, blue pool into which drops a series of small cascades. But the name, Restigouche Sam, well, I guess you'll have to let it grow on you. This is the Atlantic Salmon fishing capital of the world where folks come to cast their lines into the Restigouche River. How interesting that Campbell River in BC claims to be the Salmon Capital of the World. What is it about Campbell's and fish?

'Restigouche Sam' the Largest Salmon in the World.

We decide that today is the day we'll feast on lobster. Mario is a pro. We pick up three pre-cooked, fresh last night, bright orange specimens, some other shell fish called bourgot in French, a baguette and stow them in the trunk for shelling and devouring once the tour has finished.

'Balmoral, New Brunswick', says Mario, 'is Canada's longest town. It's all built on one long road!' Once there we see he isn't kidding. One long road. Business's are interspersed with houses along both sides, separated by large yards, fields and short roads.  We see the building where his grandfather cut hair and sold groceries and we see his childhood home. Most endearingly, we visit his current home and meet his charming mother. Like so many bilingual Canadians she says her English is terrible. It's not. It's really great, as is Mario's. We get to view this lovely home built entirely by her late husband. It is a special moment. Oh, and the wee dog, a Yorkie, Cannelle.

Mario Works the Lobsters Out of their Shells. 

Down the road, into the camp and set up a table where Mario begins to shell the lobsters. It's a tedious, messy job requiring surgical instruments designed for a medieval doctor. But it's done and we feast. No butter, no added ingredients, just pure lobster, baguette and bourgot. It don't get any better.